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ETIOPIA, VALLE DELL’OMO

Qui, dove ogni volto racconta una storia, si trova la risposta all’enigma più antico: quello sulle origini dell’uomo. Nella valle di un grande fiume, l’Omo, un dio generoso ha voluto far nascere e crescere, uno accanto all’altro, una trentina di popoli. Alcune centinaia di migliaia d’individui sono sopravvissute con un’economia di sussistenza in una fase di protostoria, lontano e fuori dalle vicende del mondo, mantenendo cristallizzate fino a oggi tradizioni e stili di vita ancestrali. Dando origine a un incredibile e gigantesco museo etnografico vivente, unico sul pianeta, rimasto intatto per millenni grazie al totale isolamento di queste terre remote. Qui si incontrano tribù diverse. Dorze, Konso, Hamar, Surma e Mursi… Alcune etnie vivono di agricoltura, altre di pastorizia, altre ancora di caccia e di pesca. Su tutto dominano i corpi. Statuari. Che comunicano e parlano. Sempre abbelliti. E qualsiasi oggetto può servire per realizzare collane, orecchini, bracciali, gonnellini: frammenti di ossi e avorio, perline di vetro, alluminio, legno, corteccia, conchiglie, semi. Incredibile la varietà nelle acconciature: treccine spalmate di burro, fermate da cilindretti di osso e legno, riccioli tagliati a caschetto o attorcigliati intorno alla testa. Per gli uomini, cranio rasato con arditi ciuffi arricchiti di piume, creste, codini. Una babele di bellezze e stili. Ma è lo stesso corpo a venire coinvolto in mille modi. Scarificazioni, tatuaggi, cicatrici, piercing multipli, anelli al naso e il celebre piattello labiale. Che può essere piccolo o diventare grandissimo. Questa inesauribile creatività risponde però a una sola, fondamentale esigenza: distinguersi in base al gruppo di appartenenza, di età e allo status sociale. E anche, perché no, per farsi belli e attirare il partner. Un’umanità unica, ferma a millenni fa.

Foto di Mara e Massimo

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